Hoi Hoi 🙋 Hoi An🎉

Hoi An is just wow! After three days at the mystical lagoon (in the rain), we move on for a one-day visit to Hoi An, and it is great! Shortly after our arrival at the hotel, we get into a taxi and drive to the centre of Hoi An. Our driver Hai ☺️enthusiastically tells us about the city and the places we must see.

When we arrive, the buildings, the colours and the atmosphere wash away the rainy day, what a beautiful town! I recognise the buildings from the research on travel websites, and it is just as nice, or even better.

We stroll around the old town of this traditional Asian trading port, with its beautiful French-Vietnamese cafes, the traditional wooden architecture with Japanese and Chinese influences (and some French), and take a break to enjoy some good red wine and Vietnamese fresh spring rolls.

The evening sets in, it gets dark and more and more lights are shining around us. The city is famous for its paper lanterns, which are glowing in all their colours at every corner. We cross the Covered Japanese Bridge, and watch the small candles in carton floating on the river.

We return to the hotel as in the early morning we have a flight to catch, destination Saigon also known as Ho Chi Minh City.

From bustling Hanoi to the end of the world

A busy and bustling, interesting and impressive, relaxing and rainy week. Leaving sunny and pittoresque Laos, Hanoi with its approximately 6,5 million inhabitants and its streets full of cars and motorcycles at any time (including constant horn-blowing) is a so-called change. The capital city of Vietnam oozes a bustling atmosphere, which is not to be compared to Bangkok or any other big city that I know.

We stay in a hotel close to Lake Hoan Kiem, which translates as ‘Lake of the Restored Sword’ or ‘Lake of the Returned Sword’, in the historical centre of Hanoi. According to the legend, Emperor Le Loi had been given a magical sword by the Golden Turtle God (Kim Qui) to smite the Chinese Ming Dynasty. After fending off the the invaders, the emperor was boating on Hoan Kiem Lake when a giant turtle rose up and took the sword from him and disappeared into the depths, never to be found again. The legend says that the Golden Turtle God reclaimed the magical sword (source: havecamerawilltravel dot com).

We have only two days in Hanoi, which we start by walking around the old quarter of the city, which is at least tumultuous. With its 36 streets of over 1000 years old, and the so-called “tubular houses”, which are short and narrow, it is said to be the heart of Vietnamese classical life. Food is sold and prepared on the streets, in the middle of the heavy traffic and people lounging and chewing on sunflower seeds. It is nice to see and experience, and also quite overwhelming at first.

The next day we wake up early to visit the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, which is a must-see for our short stay in Hanoi. The mausoleum opens 5 days per week from 08 to 11 in the morning. Ho Chi Minh* was a Vietnamese Communist revolutionary leader, who is seen as the liberator of Vietnam. The visit to the mausoleum is remarkable and impressive for various reasons. The protocol of visiting the mausoleum is in itself already an experience: lining up in rows of two, with strict rules on how to behave while waiting to enter the mausoleum. Arms must be next to the body (no hands in your pocket or anywhere else), no talking, no laughing, no eating or drinking, and be ready to be reprimanded by the military officers in snowy-white uniforms if you do any different. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is inspired by Lenin’s Mausoleum in Moscow, and ranked as ‘sixth most ugly building’ by CNN international. Waiting in line, with mostly Vietnamese co-visitors, it takes almost an hour before we can enter the grey granite building. Inside, Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body is preserved in a cool hall, and lies in a case with dim lights. In a few minutes, we are guided in and out of the mausoleum, after which we have to follow the stream of people along the house and former working premises of Ho Chi Minh. It is an interesting but also slightly awkward visit.

In the afternoon it is time for a run, which is combined with sightseeing around the Hoan Kiem lake. After dinner at a local Vietnamese restaurant, and some further strolls around the city, it is time to pack up again and get ready for the next flight to Danang in the early morning. It has been a short visit to Hanoi, they say you either love it or hate it. I think the visit was too short to decide on that, but although I found it interesting to visit this city, I cannot say I fell in love with it.

From Danang, we drive to Phu Loc, a rural district in the central coast region of Vietnam. On our way, we see the small Vietnamese towns, the agricultural fields, the sea, hills with Buddhas, and more. We are welcomed by massive amounts of non stop rain, and dark skies, overlooking the lagoon from the gigantic water villa. Compared to Hanoi, this feels like the end of the world, a beautiful tranquil place which, despite or maybe because of the weather, has a mystical feeling. From the terrace of the water villa, you can see the local fisherboats coming by, with the green hills covered in clouds in the background. Time for a few relaxed days, reading, running, eating, before heading on to Hoi An.

*Ho Chi Minh was a Vietnamese Communist revolutionary leader who was prime minister (1945–55) and president (1945–69) of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam). He was a key figure in the foundation of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam in 1945, as well as the People’s Army of Vietnam (PAVN) and the Việt Cộng (NLF or VC) during the Vietnam War (source: Wikipedia).

Lovely Laos, it has been a pleasure 😍

From the first evening, just shortly after arrival, I knew I was going to love Luang Prabang. Ofcourse the beautiful and colourful sunset, together with a view over the city and the mountains, added to that feeling, but after spending four days in this city, I would not say anything different.

Luang Prabang, with its 106,000 inhabitants, is celebrating its 19th anniversary as UNESCO world heritage site this month. Due to this status, no buses and trucks are allowed in the old town.

After running around in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, this small city feels like a nice to place to relax and wander around. It is hard to explain its kind of magical and calm atmosphere, Luang Prabang makes you feel at home instantly.

The city’s architecture is a beautiful mix of French colonial and traditional Lao styles. It has small ‘french’ squares, where the Luang Prabang Film Festival is held this week, next to the night market, and although there are hundreds of people gathered, it still feels calm and peaceful.

We spent the days visiting the various temples, wandering along the river Mekong and the many beautiful small restaurants at the waterside, taking a Lao massage, listening to monks chanting in the early evening, crossing the Nam Ou river by a bamboo bridge, eating Laab Kai (minced chicken salad, delicious!), taking a swim at the pool on the hill overlooking the city, visiting the night market, biking the streets in between the tuk-tuks, motorcycles and cars, watching the -what could easily be one of the most amazing ever- sunset at the river side, and last but not least, putting the running shoes on for a run through the city.

Enjoying the last day in Luang Prabang with a real good capuccino (lao coffee is a different cup of tea), and a chocolate cake at a local French bakery, we are slowly getting ready for our next destination: Hanoi, Vietnam.

Bye bye Chiang Mai

We have said goodbye to Chiang Mai, a region once known as the Kingdom of a Million Rice Fields, or “Lanna” in Thai.
The sun joined us yesterday on our way exploring Chiang Mai and visiting some of the many temples in this unique city of ancient culture. In one temple, we witnessed the ‘recitation of monk’s 227 disciplinary rules’ or ‘pathimokka’, which was an impressive sight and sound.

One of the temples on our tour is the Wat Jediluang which is situated next to Chiang Mai’s city pillar, a beautiful sight.

After spending a leisurely morning at the poolside enjoying a swim and a fresh coconut juice, it is time to pack the backpack again, and head to the airport. It is time for Laos!
Leaving Thailand in a small propellor plane, gives some extra flavour to the feeling of travelling. Although a bit noisy and a bit of a ‘bumpy ride’, it is a good flight and we land safely in Laos.

Luang Prabang is our destination in Laos, and on arrival you can feel the different atmosphere in this city. From a hillside overlooking the mountains and the city, accompanied by a beautiful sunset, I feel humbled. Looking forward to get to know this city.

You Tarzan, me not Jane

We have left the jungle🙊 It has been a very nice experience, the night at the river, next to the waterfall, the beautiful trees…makes one almost forget about the bedbugs 😬.
Yesterday, we moved on to Chiang Mai, where the nice city hotel comforts us, and lunch at the poolside with a view over the city is the first thing on the programme after a shower to wash away jungle life.

The streets of Chiang Mai are cosy and very relaxed, strolling along the famous night market, the people are friendly and also very relaxed (read: sleeping in their market stalls).

After the second thai massage of this trip, in a beautiful wooden carved shop, dinner is served at a Japanese restaurant.

The 5th of December is not only the celebration of Sinterklaas, but also the birthday of the King of Thailand, which is celebrated at large scale throughout the country. In Chiang Mai there are various festivals, fireworks, and the local bands sing and dance in honour of the King. No beer is served today on request of the birthday boy, so it is fresh squeezed pineapple juice instead. The wooden open restaurant at the river side offers a delicious dinner, including beef salad, vegetable curry and grilled chicken. On the side, we have a view to the river where thai lampoons are lightened and floating up in the air, a beautiful sight with the fireworks in the background. Apart from the occasional rat😉, it is good to be back in the city.

In the jungle, the mighty jungle 🐸🐜🌴

…there is a small wooden cabin, directly at the Mae Taeng river on one side and a waterfall on the other. That’s the destination for today. Although we have not seen any other guests, we are not alone… Listening to the sounds outside, I think it is frog-mate-season, which together with the water sounds of the waterfall adds to the feeling of being in the jungle (not to mention all other species of mother nature we have seen flying, walking, swimming and crawling around, and, for our enjoyment, also available IN our cabin).

The owner, wearing a furry wintercoat, cooked us a delicious dinner, in their open kitchen, while Thai soap series are screened on the television in the background. Quite a change from the busy streets in Bangkok.

It is very beautiful here, more will follow from the jungle. For now, a little quiz for entertainment- find the five differences in the two images below:
The hotel yesterday:

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The cabin today

‘Cos we know, the only thing you want to keep it long, it’s your happy life

Two days full of contrast. Yesterday started at the Urban Retreat Spa where the Sumo wrestler-look-a-like masseuse provided a relaxing 90-minute Thai massage. Across the street of the Spa lies the shopping mall Terminal 21, which is one of the coolest shopping malls I have seen. Each floor has its own city theme, and its shops, restaurants and even the toilets are styled accordingly, from Paris to San Francisco, to Rome and Istanbul.

After lunch (where I was kindly reminded that a bit spicy is, in fact, holy crappers hot), also a manicure and pedicure were part of the programme (after all, the flip flops should be worn in style).

The day flew by and the sun started to set, which we captured at the rooftopbar of the Okura hotel. On the way back, dinner was served at Madame Monsur, just off Khao San Road. We crossed the lively bars and experienced a bit of the backpackers life in the crowded but very relaxed streets. After yet another curry, a coconut juice and a Singha beer, it was time to sleep, as today a visit to the Bridge over the River Kwai was on the agenda.

Having enjoyed all the pampering of yesterday, this day brings us to visit the Bridge over the River Kwai. Mr Suttipong drives us the approx 120k to the Kanchanaburi province in his Buddha-decorated car, and the first stop is the Jeath war museum, just along the River Kwai.

The museum has been constructed (let me quote the museum’s booklet): ‘not for the maintenance of the hatred among human beings, but to warn and teach us the lesson of how terrible war is’.

The open air museum shows a realistic reconstruction of a ‘Prisoners of War’ hut, and photographs and other items connected to the construction of the Death Railway by Prisoners of War during the Second World War (1942-1943), which leaves me impressed and respectful. The next museum we visit is the Death Railway Museum, located in front of a well-maintained graveyard filled with flowers, where some of the thousands of prisoners are buried.

The scenery around the Bridge over the River Kwai looks however more festive today. This week, the bridge is the central point of an annual festival, and hundreds of chairs are set up for the evening programme. After being pulled in front of a camera with some Asian women, we walk up the bridge and cross it to the other side of the river Kwai. Apart from the beautiful surroundings, it gives a strange feeling walking there, knowing that so many people, among them Asian, Australian, British, Dutch and other nationalities, have known such hardship constructing this bridge. Never forget.

Nevertheless, the atmosphere is lively and colourful, with children singing on the bridge, people smiling and the festival in full preparation for the evening. ‘May peace always conquer violence’.

Heading back to Bangkok with Mr Suttipong, I write this blog at the backseat of the car, leaving the Kanchanaburi province and all its history behind me and at the same time taking this part of the region’s past with me on my journey.

Back to packing the backpack (not exactly the Samsonite proportions I am used too), leaving Bangkok for Chiangmai region tomorrow and its jungles (without wi-fi but with elephants).

Destination Bangkok

Landed safely at Bangkok airport yesterday morning at 10 am. Walking towards the exit of the airport, the familiar colours and especially the smells (good smells in this case 🙂 undefinable but good) welcome me to my Asian adventure.

It is funny to be back in this city which I have visited twice before. Not much has changed and still there is so much to discover. The hotel we are staying is situated close to the well-known backpackers street Khao San Road.

A little sleepy from the overnight flight, it feels good to change into a dress and flip flops and walk around the city. On our way to the Grand Palace we cross a festival with loads of food, music and cheerful people, organised in honour of the Kings birthday next week.

Having visited the Grand Palace twice before, it still impresses me and all wrapped up in a borrowed skirt, we wander around and pay a visit to the Emerald Buddha before we head back to the hotel.

So far for the first day, the rest of the evening we spent at the rooftop pool. With the buzz of the Thai life passing by, I enjoy the first Thai curry for dinner and slowly start to land in Asia.